Hanoi is known for its rich culinary heritage, attracting visitors eager to explore its flavors. Among its treasured dishes are those preserved through generations - living memories of a historic city. VietNamNet presents the series "Brands that preserve Hanoi’s memory."

During the 2019 U.S.-North Korea Summit, bun thang Ba Am was served at the International Media Center alongside Hanoi favorites like Thin’s pho and Giang’s egg coffee.

It left such a lasting impression that international journalists lined up to taste the colorful five-element bowl. “It felt just like my mother’s stall at Dong Xuan market decades ago,” recalled Doan Van Lai, the third-generation heir of the family.

That day, Lai and 15 family members worked non-stop. Over two days, they served nearly 3,000 bowls - meant as light fare, it became a main course for foreign guests. Reporters snapped photos, shot videos, and interviewed Lai’s family, fascinated by the story of this “new” Vietnamese dish unknown to many outside the country.

Lai’s mother, the late Dam Thi Am (1930–2023), joined in preparing ingredients and broth. Flyers in Vietnamese, English, and Japanese were printed to share the dish’s backstory. As Lai’s daughter said, “This is a rare chance to introduce bun thang to the world.”

A recipe passed down for over 100 years

The family’s culinary lineage dates back to Le Thi Tho (1890–1975), who sold bun thang at Cho Gao. Her daughter, Dam Thi Am, later took over. Among her 10 children, Lai showed early passion for cooking, especially mastering the delicate technique of making golden, paper-thin egg crepes - essential for bun thang’s signature look.

In its heyday at Dong Xuan, the stall was modest - just a trestle table and a few benches - but always packed. “My mother dressed with care, kept things neat and beautiful. Every ingredient had its place - chicken, egg, gio lua, fresh herbs. Customers often compared the dish to a five-colored flower,” Lai recalled.

One frequent visitor was Tran Duy Hung, then Chairman of Hanoi’s Administrative Committee. “He stood in line like everyone else and greeted my mother politely: ‘The usual, please,’” Lai remembered.

After 1983, the family paused public sales, only serving bun thang at home once a year for loyal patrons. In 2002, with encouragement from relatives, Lai reopened a professional restaurant near Cua Nam. “It wasn’t about profit - it was about preserving our family craft,” he said.

Crafting the perfect bowl

The soul of bun thang is its broth - clear, subtly sweet, and aromatic. The family’s secret recipe includes pork bones, native chicken, dried Thanh Hoa shrimp, and shiitake. Once made with capon broth, they now use East Tao hens for practicality. The broth is never scented with ginger, which would spoil the dish’s natural fragrance.

Each bowl is a labor of precision - from selecting shrimp and slicing chicken to the optional spoonful of premium Hang Be shrimp paste or a drop of ca cuong essence. The pickled radish served on the side must be crunchy, tangy, and full of flavor.

Bun thang Ba Am now costs about VND 85,000 (USD 3.33) - a fair price given the premium ingredients. Despite numerous offers, Lai has refused to franchise the dish beyond Hanoi, citing quality control concerns.

International recognition and future legacy

Among the restaurant’s elite patrons was Jensen Huang, CEO of Nvidia and the world’s 11th richest billionaire. In 2023, he visited without prior fanfare, eating two bowls and two iced black coffees. “He was humble and friendly, taking photos of our kitchen himself,” Lai shared proudly.

Even today, elderly Hanoians visit with their grandchildren, calling it a “taste of memory.” Lai’s daughter is preparing to take the reins as the fourth-generation successor. “To take bun thang further, we must preserve its heritage and pour our heart into every bowl,” Lai affirmed.

Linh Trang - The Bang - Do An