Along Vietnam’s central coast, a remarkable species of fish known for its ability to glide above water has transformed from a humble staple to a sought-after specialty. Once inexpensive and abundant, ca chuon (flying fish) is now a treasured culinary delight in cities far from the sea.

Flying fish are native to coastal provinces such as Quang Nam, Da Nang, Binh Dinh, and Khanh Hoa. With sleek, shimmering blue bodies and large pectoral and dorsal fins, these fish use their "wings" to escape predators by gliding dozens of meters above the ocean’s surface.

Their season peaks between March and July (lunar calendar), when fishing boats return with various types of flying fish. Among them, ca chuon mang giang has soft bones ideal for sour soup, while the larger ca chuon co (or chuon ganh), about the size of a forearm with sweet flesh and long fins, is perfect for soups and braised dishes. There’s also ca chuon hot mit, which is tiny, and ca chuon xanh, known for its soft flesh, green skin, and few scales.

Though bony, flying fish offer firm, sweet white meat. Prices now range from 30,000-40,000 VND ($1.20-$1.60) per kilogram for smaller types and 70,000-80,000 VND ($2.80-$3.20) for larger ones. In major cities like Ho Chi Minh City, they sell for as much as 120,000-150,000 VND ($4.80-$6.00) per kilogram.

Cam Loan, a native of Khanh Hoa now living in Ho Chi Minh City, said flying fish dishes are nostalgic reminders of her childhood. “Back then, they were cheap and everywhere. Now, finding fresh ca chuon in the city is difficult. I have to go to the market very early and still consider myself lucky if I find it.”

Loan fondly recalled the folk verse: “Ai về nhắn với nậu nguồn, mít non gửi xuống cá chuồn gửi lên” (Whoever returns, tell those upstream - send down young jackfruit and send up flying fish). She listed dishes such as ca chuon cooked with giang leaves, pickled melon, bitter melon, green papaya, young jackfruit, or grilled with lemongrass and turmeric - all favorites among central Vietnamese families.

Fresh flying fish can be recognized by their clear eyes, shiny skin, and bright red gills. The preparation is meticulous: removing scales, fins, tail, and gills, slicing open the belly, extracting the guts, and thoroughly cleaning the body to eliminate slime and blood vessels.

“For authentic central Vietnamese flavor, flying fish must be marinated with wild garlic (cu nen), fresh turmeric, and green chili,” Loan noted.

Among the most beloved recipes is ca chuon kho mit non (braised flying fish with young jackfruit). The dish combines tender fish and flavorful jackfruit infused with turmeric fish sauce - a comforting, savory treat that pairs perfectly with rice.

To make it, young jackfruit is briefly boiled and drained. The cook sautés wild garlic, shallots, and turmeric in hot oil, then adds the fish, turmeric slices, and jackfruit. “No need for caramel sauce,” said Loan. “Just add enough water to cover the fish and simmer gently. Don’t let it dry out, or the jackfruit will become too salty.”

For grilled flying fish, a fragrant blend of wild garlic, garlic, shallots, turmeric, and chili is stuffed into the belly. The fish is folded in half and left to marinate for 30 minutes. After pan-frying with garlic until golden, it’s gently simmered in a fish sauce and chili mixture until fully absorbed. For extra aroma, the fish can be grilled over charcoal while brushing on oil and seasoning to enhance flavor and color.