Pho Thin is part of a VietNamNet special series titled “Brands preserving the memory of old Hanoi”, spotlighting long-standing eateries that have become cultural landmarks for generations of Hanoians.

A wartime pho shop and a poetic vendor

In the wartime memoir “Old Hanoi Tales” by author To Hoai, Pho Thin was the only vendor open while American bombs fell on the capital. “On nights when U.S. planes bombed Long Bien Bridge,” he wrote, “only Mr. Thin’s pho stall remained open by the lake.” Some nights, diners had to carry their pho bowls into bomb shelters near the water to finish their meal.

The eatery was founded in 1955 by Bui Chi Thin (1928–2001), a native of Hoai Duc, former Ha Tay Province. After being imprisoned by the French colonialists for his resistance activities and released in 1952, Thin stayed in Hanoi and learned to cook pho while working for a relative. He later opened his own pho stall, roaming from Ham Long Street to Yen Phu water plant and eventually settling near the former “Au Tri Vien” (now the Hanoi Children’s Palace).

After the 1954 liberation of Hanoi, Thin and his wife Nguyen Thi Ty opened the pho (Vietnamese noodles) shop at the mouth of their alley, using profits to raise nine children.

According to Bui Chi Thanh, the founder’s grandson and current owner, “My grandfather was known for his humor and hospitality. He would recite verses from The Tale of Kieu or folk opera songs while preparing pho.”

A family tradition spanning generations

Pho Thin’s broth is famously clear and aromatic, free of the heavy beef fat taste. The recipe, passed down through generations, avoids spices like cinnamon and star anise. Instead, ginger and basic seasonings are used. “I adjust the stock based on the meat and bones I use each day,” Thanh said. “I can tell the balance just by looking or smelling.”

Mr. Thin trained his five sons and four daughters in pho-making. At one time, each son ran his own pho shop, while the daughters handled supply and production. “It was a nearly self-sustained operation,” Thanh said. “Grandfather visited the shops regularly, inspecting ingredients and methods to ensure they met his standards.”

Today, family-run Pho Thin outlets operate on Hang Tre, Le Van Huu, Kim Ma, and soon on Nguyen Van Tuyet Street. But the original alley shop remains the family’s pride.

Thanh, born and raised beside the boiling stockpot and charcoal stove, studied graphic design but always returned on weekends to help. In 2015, as his parents’ health declined, he took over the shop with his wife, Ngoc Thu.

The couple modernized some aspects - repainting soot-covered walls and replacing coal with gas per city orders - but retained the essence of the pho. “I was given the family’s ‘heirloom’ coal poker when I married into the family,” Thu said, recalling the always-burning stove.

From Hanoi alley to international acclaim

The shop serves rare, well-done, flank, and brisket cuts - using old but fresh beef, which gives the broth a richer flavor. The meat is only sliced upon order, and rare beef is thinly pounded, then quickly scalded by ladling boiling broth over it.

From 8 to 9:30 a.m., the shop bustles with noise: cleavers pounding, orders shouted, scooters honking in the tight alley. Pho Thin doesn’t take reservations - customers simply find an open seat.

Despite recent mixed reviews, the shop has attracted global attention. In 2019, Pho Thin prepared 4,000 bowls for the Hanoi-hosted U.S.–DPRK summit, earning praise from international media. In 2023, the family represented Vietnam at Vietnam Day in France, serving pho live in Paris under the theme “Honoring the Past, Embracing the Future.”

The shop was also featured in the Channel News Asia series “In Search of Umami”, which highlighted the delicate balance and authenticity of its broth.

Facing relocation after 70 years

Pho Thin’s longtime location now faces an uncertain future. The Hanoi government plans to relocate some households and businesses around Hoan Kiem Lake to create more public space - and the alley shop falls within the affected zone.

“We were surprised by the city’s announcement,” Thanh said. “This year, we had planned a celebration to mark 70 years of Pho Thin in the same alley where it all began.”

While the family searches for a new location, they hope to remain close to the lake. “Pho Thin Bờ Hồ is more than just a place to eat - it’s a place of memory,” Thanh said. “Even if we relocate, we want to preserve that emotional connection.”

Longtime customer Pham Thi Ngoc Lan, 70, shared, “We’ve eaten here since pho cost only VND15,000–20,000 ($0.60–0.80). If the shop moves away from this alley, many of us will feel a deep loss. But as long as the Thin family preserves their craft, we’ll follow them wherever they go.”

Linh Trang - The Son - Do An